Paris Fashion Week Men’s for the Spring/Summer 2023 season was filled with buzzy moments, from viral celebrity appearances to unexpected collaborations. With more designers pushing for gender-fluid and inclusive fashion, brands like Mowalola and Marine Serre showcased their collections instead of joining the traditional ready-to-wear calendar.
Standout shows of the week include Hedi Slimane‘s CELINE and Kim Jones‘ Dior Men, as well as Matthew M. Williams‘ Givenchy and NIGO‘s Kenzo. Jonathan Anderson added real grass to his garments and accessories for Loewe, while Louis Vuitton celebrated the legacy of Virgil Abloh with a canary yellow runway.
Continue scrolling to see some of the best shows at PFW Men’s. While you’re here, check out the standout footwear we spotted on runways throughout the week.
Titled “DYSFUNCTIONAL BAUHAUS,” Hedi Slimane’s latest runway marked the 20th anniversary of his first show at the iconic Palais de Tokyo in 2002 when he was designing for Dior Homme. Accompanied by New York band Gustaf, the presentation featured a slew of leather jackets, as well as sleek tailored suits. Some of K-pop‘s biggest names, BLACKPINK‘s Lisa and BTS‘ V were in attendance, creating a viral moment on social media.
Kim Jones invited guests to a flowery garden to showcase his latest collection for Dior Men. The backdrop, inspired by Christian Dior’s childhood home in Granville, Normandy, featured a vibrant blue ceiling and a picturesque cottage. Models walked out in garments inspired by technical outdoor wear, along with 3D-printed gardener’s hats. The collection was also a celebration of the post-impressionist painter Duncan Grant, whose works were spotlighted on sweaters and sheer tops.
Matthew W. Williams added a personal touch to his SS23 Givenchy collection. He shared with Vogue that his latest designs were inspired by his background, experience and people around him: “Elements of, like, Melrose and California, where I spent time as a kid and I now take my son to shop. It’s what I observe of those communities, where it’s just going through my own personal filter.” The runway featured monochromatic ensembles comprised of cargo silhouettes, face masks and outerwear, while bright colors were added to motorcycle pants, knee-length shorts and tracksuits.
NIGO continued to explore the legacy of Kenzo Takada for the house’s SS23 collection. Vibrant colors and prints were used throughout, with preppy British tailoring in addition to workwear-inspired designs. The designer took inspiration from the ’70s and ’80s, creating pieces like puffy dresses and varsity styles, referencing the Japan’s fashion scene in the ’80s. A follow-up to his previous releases, the SS23 range once again featured the Boke flower motif.
Jonathan Anderson explored the balance between technology and nature for Loewe’s SS23 collection, delivering a message on circularity through the use of real grass on sneakers, coats, pants and sweaters. Juxtaposing these grassy pieces were coats covered with digital screens, as well as empty phone cases, earphones and a pen drive attached to garments. Other standouts from the runway included trainers with puffy details, dressed in bold shades of orange, blue and more.
Honoring the legacy of Virgil Abloh, Louis Vuitton’s design team came together to create the house’s SS23 menswear collection. Titled “Strange Math,” the show kicked off with a marching band performance from the Florida A&M University in Tallahassee, Florida, followed by Kendrick Lamar performing from his front-row seat. Soft grayish lilac suits opened the collection, followed by a black tuxedo with paper planes attached throughout. Models also wore Louis Vuitton sound systems strapped to their backs with vibrant beaded pieces accessorizing the looks.
Marine Serre enlisted a mix of professional and amateur models for her gender-fluid SS23 collection, with a runway starring Jorja Smith and Lourdes Leon as well as athletes and the designer’s friends. The label’s signature crescent pattern made its comeback on a range of swimwear and bodysuits, while upcycled towels were used to craft piped dresses. Elsewhere, patched denim looks made their way down the catwalk, accompanying cozy terry material on jackets, trousers and more.
Dubbed “Burglarwear,” Mowalola’s SS23 collection marked the designer’s return after a three-year hiatus. Looks included everything from tank tops and mini skirt looks reminiscent of Regina George from Mean Girls, as well as micro-mini ensembles proving the buzzy influence of the Miu Miu set. The designer additionally debuted her first-ever collaboration with New Balance — the 90/60 sneaker arriving in green and pink colorways.
Rick Owens’ “EDFU” collection for SS23 took inspiration from the designer’s recent trip to Egypt. Highlighted with gigantic “balls of fire,” the show was all about exaggeration and reflection, presenting ultra-cropped tops, sheer tailored suits and more. Models walked the runway in inverted jackets, shirts and pants in Owens’ signature all-black, as well as unusual pops of colors in pink, yellow and green.
Glenn Martens invited guests to a Parisian garden for his Y/Project show, continuing to experiment with his signature playful aesthetic. The runway was highlighted with the second part of the designer’s partnership with Jean Paul Gaultier, with trompe l’œil motifs appearing on garments. Classic denim silhouettes were reworked to create unexpected silhouettes, while the Eiffel Tower logo took center stage on select pieces.